Posts Tagged ‘wiring’

Residential Fluorescent Lighting

Tuesday, July 14th, 2009

So, yesterday I posted a process I might go through to replace a fixture in my home with something more energy efficient. However, it isn’t really what I would do in my own home because I like everything to be dimmed. That includes fluorescents.

A good number of fluorescent and compact fluorescents can be dimmed using dimming ballasts. That does NOT include the self-ballasted CFLs with the screw-in base that you find at the hardware store. GE has come out with a self-ballasted replacement CFL that can be dimmed, and I’m sure others either have or will have soon their own versions. However, these can only be dimmed about 50% before they just turn off. They aren’t worth it.

Instead, I would have to buy separate dimming ballasts and install them myself. I would also have to change out my dimmers to a special versions for fluorescent lighting or perhaps install an interface. Some fluorescent dimming is done using two-wire ballasts, which would be easier to install using existing wiring, but the better dimming is accomplished using three-wire ballasts, which requires a third connection between the dimmer or interface and the ballast.

Fluorescent dimming ballasts typical have a minimum power setting of 1%, 5%, or 10%. For residential use I always recommend using 1% ballasts. This is because reducing the power doesn’t look like the same amount of light reduction. If you dim fluorescents down to a 10% it looks like it has only been dimmed down to about 30%. This just isn’t low enough for use in homes. Instead, using a 1% ballast means the lighting will look like it has been reduced to about 10%.

Three-Way Dimming

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009

Yesterday, at the end of the post, I mentioned three-way and four-way dimming. For local dimmers there are two approaches: “mechanical,” and “electronic.” Mechanical and electronic refer to the dimmer type. Electronic dimmers are labeled as such and usually have LEDs on them. Mechanical dimmers are cheaper and will have no special functions and usually have a rotating dial or a slider.

For mechanical three and four way dimmers you will have to select a single location to install the dimmer, which should typically be the place from which you control the light most often. All the other locations will still be a switch that just turns the light on or off, and when turned on the lights go to the level set by the dimmer. For both three-way and four-way circuits you only use a three-way dimmer. It will have three wires instead of two (excluding the green ground wire).

Electronic dimming allows you to use remote dimmers in those locations that otherwise would have had to stay switches. However, installation is much more complex because typically there is a low-voltage wire connecting all the dimmers together. If your house doesn’t already have that wire you’re pretty much out of luck. You can use radio-controlled dimmers to eliminate the need for those extra wires, but the cost is very high (hundreds of dollars per item). Some electronic dimmer also let you use IR remote controls, and sometimes you can tie your master remote for the TV/DVD to the lights. That way you can adjust the lighting just the same as adjusting the volume on your TV. You’ll probably need to hire an electrician for those kinds of installations.