Archive for the ‘New Tech’ Category

New LED Introduction Continued

Friday, September 4th, 2009

So I mentioned in my last post that there are two main reasons LED are such a big change from way we have previously generated light for ourselves. I discussed the electric versus electronic issue. Now I want to introduce the second issue: directionality.

All of our previous methods of generating light have been omnidirectional. That means that the light is radiated nearly all directions more or less equally. If you picture a candle, the light shines above and below and all around it fairly evenly. Some light is blocked below the candle, but that’s actually a shadow. The flame is still shining light down on the top of the candle.

That means that we can take as single candle, stick it in a room, and illuminate the entire space. It may not be very bright, but the light goes everywhere. The same thing can is true for light bulbs. The design of a traditional incandescent light bulb is pretty much the same as candle. There is a filament providing the light, just like a flame, and there is a base for holding the filament in place, just like the candle. We have developed various shapes for light bulb since then, but the only real difference is if the bulb has sockets on two ends so the shadow is on two ends instead of just one.

All the different sources still have the same distribution property. Incandescent, halogen, fluorescent, compact fluorescent, mercury vapor, sodium discharge, metal halide… They all send the light in all directions. Often, we don’t want the light to go in all directions, we want to be able to control it. So we have developed reflectors and refractors to help send the light the ways we want it to go and stop if from going where we don’t want it go. Just for clarification: reflectors are things like mirrors that bounce the light back either toward where it came from or in another direction we intend; refractors are things like lenses that let the light pass through them to the other side, but while passing through the light changes direction.

Going back to our candle in the room example, if we stick the candle on the wall so it stays out of the way, there is a bunch of light shining on the wall where it isn’t very useful to us. So, we stick a mirror on the wall behind the candle and (most) of the light that would have landed on the wall is now bounced back into the room where we want it. If we want to get even more useful light out of it, we can use a curved mirror instead of a flat one so that we can start to bend the edges around the flame to catch more of the light that would have gone onto the wall further from the candle and use that too.  Finally, we can stick that entire thing into a lantern and use a lens on the side toward the middle of the room to catch stray light and refocus it across the room. We have created a lighting fixture, and we have been using the basics of reflectors and refractors to control omnidirectional sources for thousands of years. We’re pretty good at it.

Now, we can take those omnidirectional sources and make them directional. PAR lamps and MR-16 lamps that you buy at the hardware store are examples of lamps that have the reflectors built onto the source. The filament inside is still omnidirectional, but it is built into a solid unit that does some of the work of the fixture. That’s why you often see light coming out the back of such sources either through gaps or through what appears to be opaque surfaces when the lamp is off.

The big change with LED sources is that they are truely directional. The diode is made up of layers and the light is only emitted out of one side. If you stick an LED in the middle of the room you don’t get light everywhere. It only lights the part of the room that the LED is “facing.” The other side of the room remains dark.

It may seem  like a minor point, but it really is important. Think of lighting up a space a building an object. The old way was to start with everything, both good and bad, then take away the bad parts. The LED way is to start with nothing and just starting adding things. The question becomes, how much do you add? With the old way, once you take away the bad parts which is pretty much the light going where we don’t want it, whatever is left over is useful. With the LED way, someone has to decide whether or not to keep adding.

So far, much of the LED lighting development has been driven by the need to reduce energy consumption. That means that LED sources have been designed by people who want to stop adding as quickly as possible. The problem is that people have lighting needs that are established without regard to the source or energy consumption, but by whether or not they can see well enough for whatever is it that they are doing.

Return to the example of a light bulb in a room. If we want to illuminate the room with LED sources, we have to add LEDs pointing in all directions. To illustrate, let’s imagine we take the guts out of a light bulb and glue LEDs onto the outside. How many do we have to add? One every square inch? One every square half-inch? Do we have the cover the surface completely? Then, we have to address the point of the previous discussion of the LEDs being electronic but the power is electric. Can we fit all the electronic components and drivers inside that light bulb?

In summary, the directionality of LED modules means we have to rethink and re-imagine how to develop a light source. It doesn’t mean that these problems can’t be solved, or aren’t being solved, it just means it is more difficult.

New LED Introduction

Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009

After two postings about LED lighting and working on more, I have decided I didn’t like the way the series was developing. It was too much cart before the horse. I want these posts to be useful for everyone and I felt the LED discussion was getting too technical without explaining why any of it mattered. Therefore, I am going to start over with a new introduction to LED lighting.

LED lighting is a game changer, but not in the way most people discuss it. It is not because of the efficiency or size or whatever, but because it is so fundamentally different from the way we have created light for ourselves. This may or may not be the future of lighting. It seems to be direction everyone is traveling at the moment, but that doesn’t mean we won’t find another alternative before we fully adopt, and adapt to, LED lighting.

There are two main reasons LED lighting is such a huge change. This post will focus of the first of the two, which is that LED lighting is an electronic, rather than electric, approach.

Imagine for a moment you are back in the early days of electric lighting. Up until this time, light was generated by burning a fuel at the point where you wanted the light to be. You might have a whale-oil lantern or a wax candle, but in any case the location of the light had to have both a supply of fuel to be consumed and a flame. At some point, your fuel would be used up and you would need more.

Then this new technology arrives that promises to change everything. By using an electric light you separate the fuel from the light source. Previously, if you knocked over an oil lamp you had to worry about a fire breaking out. Now, if you break an electric light bulb it just goes out. You no longer had an open flame at every light source. Now, each incandescing filament is surrounded by a glass envelope. Granted, there were still plenty of fires started by bad wiring or things touching a hot lamp, but it was a safer than having flames and combustible materials everywhere. You could wake up at night and press a switch to turn on the light instead of fumbling around in the dark for your taper.

The electricity became the new version of the fuel. How much electricity you got determined how much work was done by your motor or light bulb. You could plug in a light bulb and if you kept giving it more electricity it would get brighter and brighter until it broke. Electricity was “power,” and the power means getting work done.

All of our lighting advances since then have gone along the same lines: electricity means power. Various circuits have been designed to take advantage of that power in different ways, and different lamps take advantage of those circuits in different ways, but it is still essentially using electricity to power a light source, and creating that light is the work we want done.

LED lighting is different because electronics are different than electrics. Electronics use electricity as the power source, but they also use electricity as the information source. I’ll use digital electronics as the example since analog electronics are a confusing middle ground.

In a digital circuit the idea is to use the current as the information. Imagine you want a digital light switch. The entire device will need two circuits: one circuit to figure out if it is supposed to be off or on, and a second to actually power the light. The two circuits can’t be shared, because if they were the result would be something like: “if the light is on, turn the light on, and if the light is off, turn it off.” That wouldn’t actually do anything useful. Instead, we have one circuit which is “smart.” It knows that if the current flows in a particular direction at a particular power, it is supposed to be “on.” If the current doesn’t meet those requirements, it is “off.” If the control circuit is “on,” it tells the work circuit to flow, turning on the light.

The point here is that diodes, like an LED, were and are designed to function as a part of the control circuit, not the work circuit. To make LED lighting work we have to design a control circuit act as a work circuit. That’s the point of including the stuff about circuit boards and drivers in my previous posts. Power is supplied from the power company in the work circuit form, which then has to be converted to a control circuit form to let the LED function. However, the LED has to function as a work circuit, and the only way that can be accomplished is by proper fixture design. That’s why we can’t just stick a bunch of LED modules on a wall and expect an efficient and effective lighting system.

LED Lighting, About Life

Friday, August 28th, 2009

Another potential benefit to LED lighting is that they promise to last a lot longer than incandescent or even fluorescent lighting. It is often claimed that an LED will last 100,000 hours. In practical terms, how long is 100,000 hours?

  • Left on 24 hours a day, 100,000 hours means about 11 1/2 years.
  • Left on 12 hours a day, for example all night all year long, 100,000 hours means about 22 years.
  • Left on 9 hours a day, for example all day in your office, 100,000 hours means about 30 1/2 years.

Those calculations are pretty impressive, which is why they are used. Especially when someone is trying to convince you to buy a $36 LED light bulb. If you compare a single $36 LED lamp against 100 to 133 $0.75 lighting bulbs the economics seem to make sense.

However, it is not a fair comparison. Similar to the posting about LED efficiency, you can’t take the life of the LED module itself and apply it an LED used in a lighting application. To be fair, the major lamp manufacturers who are entering the LED game have toned down the rhetoric, and usually claim somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 hours. However, the big claims are still out there.

Like efficiency, everything you do to an LED will tend to shorten its life. Much come back to the heat that has such a negative effect on efficiency. That same heat shortens the lifespan. If a module and the fixture design are good at dissipating the heat the lifespan isn’t shortened as much as it would be with a poor design, but there is always going to be some effect.

The problem at predicting the effect is that the LED lighting fixtures being designed and sold are still so new there just hasn’t been enough time to adequately test the claims.

Technical note: you don’t necessarily need to know this bit.

Lifespan for lighting is odd. It measures the number of hours a lamp type in aggregate is going to average until the lamp is no longer useful. For incandescent lamps this is fairly simple. If an incandescent lamp has a 750 hour life, than if you take a large sample of lamps after 750 hours you would expect about half of them to still be on and half to have burned out.

Lifespan for fluorescent lamps is more complex, since they slowly decrease the light they put out over time. Therefore, it is possible to have a lamp still function that isn’t putting out enough light to be useful. So if you take a very large sample of lamps with a rated life of 10,000 hours, after 10,000 hours more than 50% might still be illuminated, but only about 50% will actually be useful.

Lifespan for LED modules is like fluorescent lamps. They slowly decrease over time. There is an industry testing protocol (LM-80), but not everyone is using it. For example, some people use the “B50″ claim, which is the point when 50% of the LED stop turning on. Others might be a bit more reasonable and use the “L50″ claim, which is the point when the lumen output is 50% of the original. Others use the “L70″ claim, which is the point at which the lumen output has dropped to only 70% of the original. LM-80, the testing protocol from the IES, uses L50 or L70 based on the application.

To return to the main point: The problem at predicting the effect is that the LED lighting fixtures being designed and sold are still so new there just hasn’t been enough time to adequately test the claims.

If you take a 100,000 LED module and stick it in a fixture, you have to test the life of the LED in the fixture. Say we think it will last 50,000 hours instead of 100,000 hours. That means to adequately test the claim (not just run the computer simulations) you have to build a bunch of fixtures and test them for over 5 years. These test are in progress, and there are plenty of tests that have been completed. However, in terms of the overall industry those amount to spot checks, and what we really need is the sheer massive quantity of testing completed that will allow us to make confident claims about the industry as a whole. We’ve been using incandescent lamps for over a century, and fluorescent lamps almost as long. (Earlier posting: fluorescent precursors were invented before incandescent lamps but not really commercially viable or available until the 1920s.)

In general, the longer the life claim of an LED the more skeptical your approach should be. Chances are, if a manufacturer says their LED fixture has a more limited life of around 20,000 hours it is because they have gone through the testing procedures and there is the paperwork demonstrating that rated life and they know they can’t get away with claiming anything longer. If they claim 100,000 hours, chances are they have taken the number straight from the original LED laboratory results and not actually tested their own application.

LED Lighting, About Efficiency

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

LED lighting offers claims of very high efficiency. Recently I’ve seen claims of over 100 lumens per watt and efficiency of four to five times that of incandescent. First, a refresher on efficiency (and efficacy) for those that need it. The following are link-backs to the previous posts I made regarding efficiency, and they should open up in a new window so you can just close it when you’re done reviewing to get back here.

The problem with trusting efficiency claims from LED manufacturers is based on the complexity of the systems. The initial efficiency measurement is made with a controlled junction temperature of 25˚C and lasts for only a millisecond. These measurements are made of the LEDs themselves and before the LEDs are built into any sort of fixture.

LEDs are sensitive to current. As current increases, the efficiency decreases. Most LEDs used for lighting applications run at around 350 milliamps, or 0.350 amps. Like a fluorescent lamp requires a ballast to control voltage, an LED needs a driver to control the current. And just as a fluorescent ballast decreases the efficiency of a fluorescent lamp, the driver decreases the efficiency of the LED module. At present, the rule of thumb is that you can expect a loss of 10 to 15% efficiency due to the driver. Remember, the LED is an electronic component and the power supplied is connected by an electric component. The driver is the link between them.

LEDs are also sensitive to heat. As the temperature rises above or drops below the testing temperature of 25˚C (which is about 77˚F) the efficiency drops. LEDs are commonly described as not producing much heat, but that is only partially true. The current passing from the circuit board to the diode creates heat, so the heat that is generated comes out the back of the module, not the front. You can touch the front of an LED and it is cool to the touch, but the module itself will be mounted on some sort of heat sink that will be hot. When the initial testing is done it only last a fraction of a second, but in continuous use the efficiency of that heat sink comes into play. Again, the rule of thumb at present is that you can expect a loss of 8 to 10% for thermal management.

Playing even more into that loss of efficiency is sticking an LED module into some sort of fixture housing. You can’t just stick an LED module on your ceiling or wall as a light fixture. (In order to do that your wall and ceilings would have to be made out of circuit boards, so it would look like living inside a computer, which I suppose some people might thing was cool.) The LED module has to go into something, and at present the LED manufacturers and fixture manufacturers are different companies. A fixture manufacturer buys an LED module from someone else and then has to figure out how to deal with the heat and everything else. While the best fixture design possible might maintain that 8 to 10% loss in efficiency due to heat, a poor fixture design can increase that loss even more.

LEDs are also directional sources. If you take a regular incandescent light bulb and stick it in a bare socket, the light travels in all directions and lights up the whole room. If you take a halogen PAR lamp and stick it in a base socket, it lights up mostly in one direction like a cone of light. The LED is similar to the PAR lamp although it typically has a tighter cone of light. To use an LED to light up a room there has to be some method of optically controlling the light distribution. At present, the rule of thumb is that you can expect another 10 to 15% decrease in efficiency due to whatever method is used for optical control.

Aside: I’ve used a halogen PAR lamp as an example of a directional light source since most people are familiar with that type of bulb. Keep in mind that a PAR lamp is a combination of a light source an optical control system. The filament inside the lamp is omni-directional, just like a regular light bulb, but the glass and metal envelope surrounding it control the light to make it directional. The final result is less efficient than if we just uncovered the bare filament inside the bulb, but since we’ve packaged the whole thing as a lamp we ignore that loss and just use the efficiency of the entire unit for calculations. Keep in mind we’ve had a century of experience now at controlling omni-directional light, which is what we get from all incandescent and fluorescent sources. LEDs are the first fundamentally directional sources we’ve developed so we are still fairly new at utilizing the light generation.

So if we add up the efficiency losses from the driver, heat, and optical design, we’ve already lost 28 to 40% of the LEDs efficiency just by taking the thing out of the laboratory and trying to stick in into a lighting fixture (or flashlight, or whatever).

There are other losses in efficiency that are harder to illustrate. LEDs typically have a very high color temperature. Decreasing that color temperature to something that would be more appropriate to general lighting decreases the efficiency. LEDs emit light in specific regions of the color spectrum based on the materials used, which is similar to the issues regarding fluorescent lighting. When efforts are made to increase the color rendition, similar to increasing the CRI of a fluorescent lamp, the efficiency decreases.

The take-away here is that you can’t just look at the efficiency of the LED module and make an assumption about the efficiency of the LED light. The only way to determine the efficiency is to look at the efficacy of the entire system after it is designed and potentially installed. That why if you review my postings about the new lighting requirements for California they specify that the efficiency of LED lighting has be done based on the entire LED module/driver system, not just the lamping. The efficiency of the lamp all that is required for incandescent or fluorescent lighting options.

LED Lighting, The Introduction

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

LED lighting is a complex subject. It is new, and it is a game-changer. I’ll endeavor to make this all comprehensible.

Part of the problem is that LEDs are an electronic component, not a traditional lighting source. I believe that is the root of nearly all the confusion. We’re trying to shoehorn components that are meant to build things like computers and radios into a lighting fixture. LED stands for “light emitting diode.” We’re trying to take advantage of the “light emitting” part, but the component is still a diode. The traditional function of a diode is to control the direction of an electrical current.

LED proponents have a variety of claims for the advantages of LED lighting. The most common claims are that LED have higher efficiency and long life than traditional lighting sources. These claims are technically true in a laboratory setting, but in the real-life application the picture is much more complex. Development is taking place, and someday the full potential of the LED light may be realized, but that hasn’t happened yet.

Over the next few posts I’ll address issues surrounding LED lighting in what I hope will be understandable bite-sized chunks. I’ll address energy efficiency and lifespan, but also get into other factors such as color and light directionality that affect the use of LED in lighting but get less popular coverage.

As an aside, an OLED is an LED where the emitting layer is an organic compound instead of an inorganic compound. They are a newer development and less efficient at present, but one of the exciting aspects of them is that they can be flexible. Developers are looking at them for flexible displays and luminous cloth.

How Do I Know What’s Efficient?

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

I have fielded a variety of questions from people trying to figure out what kind of lighting is more or less efficient than others. Many people understand that lower wattage is better, from a consumption view, but they don’t necessarily feel like they are comparing apples to apples when they try to compare incandescent to compact fluorescent or LED.

The way to determine efficiency of any given source is to figure out how much light you get for the amount of power used. Using the lowest wattage source may not be the most efficient approach if it doesn’t give you enough light and you end up adding more. The lighting industry uses a measurement called Lumens per Watt, or LPW. We take the total lumen output of the source divided by the wattage so we can make direct comparisons.

For example: a regular 100 watt light bulb for a table lamp, with clear glass so you can see through it, will provide about 1,750 lumens (it will say this somewhere on the box). Since it uses 100 watts, you divide 1,750 by 100 and figure out its efficiency is 17.5 LPW. Now you can compare that to a compact fluorescent replacement lamp (with a screw in base for your lamp) and find that it provides about 1,700 lumens for only 26 watts. The CFL lamp has an efficiency of a bit over 65 LPW. Therefore, we can say that the CFL lamp is almost 4 times as efficient as the incandescent.

To provide some general guidance I’ll type up a quick list of some sources and their LPW ranges:

  • Standard incandescent bulbs range from around 4 to 20 LPW
  • Tungsten-halogen bulbs range from around 18 to 22 LPW
  • Low wattage compact fluorescents range from around 20 to 60 LPW.
  • High wattage compact fluorescents range from around 50 to 80 LPW.
  • Linear fluorescents range from around 65 to 95 LPW.
  • LEDs range from around 5 to 40 LPW, although there is so much development of LED sources right now this range is likely to change quickly.

As with everything I write about lighting, there are some caveats. I’ll discuss a few of those in upcoming posts.

Full-Spectrum, Outside Evidence

Monday, June 29th, 2009

No one has complained, but my rigorous academic training has been nagging at my conscience about  not offering citations. Even though it is just my blog, and I am offering advice based on my experience and expertise, I suppose I should offer evidence that I am not just making this stuff up.

A good place to start is the National Lighting Product Information Program, which was established by the Lighting Research Center, which is a manufacturer independent organization backed by the Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. They have an article about full-spectrum lighting from which I gathered some of the numbers in my previous posts, like the white paper study. That article is a full scholarly work so it is properly cited.

Last Full-Spectrum Post, I Promise

Monday, June 29th, 2009

I have just a couple more points to make about full-spectrum lamps.

  • They are more expensive. Since “full-spectrum” lighting is a marketing term, you should expect it to be an attempt to get you to pay more for a light bulb. There are reasons to pay more for a light bulb, such as increased efficiency or better color rendition, but paying more for a “full-spectrum” lamp should be approached with caution. You can sometimes get the exact same spectral distribution with greater efficiency from a non-full-spectrum source.
  • They are only worth it if they make you feel better. Some people will just like them. If that is you, and you don’t mind the cost, go ahead and use them. The increased UV isn’t too bad (remember: 8 hours of full-spectrum lighting to equal UVB of 1 minute of sunlight).
  • (A follow-up claim) Full-spectrum can make your whites whiter and paper brighter: This is slightly true, as you can increase the luminance about 1.7 to 2.3% of a piece of white paper or white cloth treated with whitening agents, but at the cost of 30 to 40% less efficacy.
  • Generally speaking, full-spectrum sources are less efficient than the standard version of the same thing. When making a choice, I recommend using the more energy efficient lamp.

Full-Spectrum Lighting Health Claims

Friday, June 26th, 2009

I realized there are a couple of other things to mention, but so much of what I’ve been hearing relates to the health claims that I want to address that today and let the other things spill over into next week.

When the full-spectrum term was coined in the 1960′s it referred to both visible light and the invisible ultraviolet (UV) light. The health claims of full-spectrum lighting mostly revolve around the UV end of the range. All fluorescent light emits UV radiation, since it is the UV rays created by the mercury vapor striking the phosphor coating which makes a fluorescent light work. Full-spectrum lamps just emit more UV radiation than normal lamps.

The typical recommendation is to avoid as much UV exposure as possible. UV exposure has been linked to sunburn and skin cancers as well as cataracts in the eye. UV exposure also cause the degradation of textiles, paints, and architectural materials. Museums typically require all wavelengths shorter than 400nm to be filtered out of artificial lights.

  • Technical info, you may ignore: Visible light is 760 nm to 380 nm, UVA is light wavelengths between 400 nm and 315 nm, UVB is light wavelengths between 315 nm and 280 nm, UVC is light wavelengths between 280 nm and 100 nm. Visible light is broken down as red from 760 to 610 nm, orange from 610 to 591 nm, yellow from 591 to 570 nm, green from 570 to 500 nm, blue from 500 to 450 nm, and purple from 450 to 360 nm. These are defined by the International Organization for Standardization in ISO 21348:2007.

Full-spectrum lighting to treat SAD (seasonal affective disorder): Using full-spectrum lighting does not fit into the standard treatment of SAD, which involves exposure of the eye to a white light source in a light box. The light box typically generates 10,000 lux and it is used for about 30 minutes. Lower intensities might be used for longer periods. At 10,000 lux, any light source will be effective to treat SAD. Most importantly, these light boxes shield out UV rays, which is the opposite of using full-spectrum lighting. Using full-spectrum lamps in normal overhead lighting will have no effect upon SAD treatment.

Full-spectrum lighting and vitamin D production: Vitamin D is important, but the production is stimulated by the UVB band (315 to 280 nm) of light. Full-spectrum lamps typically use phosphors to generate UVA radiation (400 to 315 nm), and they typically peak around 355 nm. You are better off eating fish and dairy products and–if you’re really worried–taking supplements. Various studies have been done showing exposure to full-spectrum lighting for vitamin D production is impractical. For example, to spike vitamin D production in your body you may need 30 hours continuous exposure to a full-spectrum lamp to get the same affect as 22 minutes of mid-day sunlight. Or, 8 hours of full-spectrum office lighting has about the same UVB exposure as 1 minute of direct sunlight.

Also, the UVB rays that are generated by full-spectrum lamps often don’t bounce off surfaces. That means that if you are hoping to increase your UVB exposure you will only get it when in direct line of sight from the lamp to your skin. Everything else is absorbed by the materials and clothing around you. That also increases the deterioration of those materials.

In summary, there really are no serious health benefits to using full-spectrum lighting.

Full-Spectrum Lighting

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

I’ve been running into people, Tweets, and marketing articles about full-spectrum lighting recently and I want to set some things straight. Full-spectrum lighting is a marketing term used by people selling you lighting products; it does not have any technical meaning in the lighting industry. Full-spectrum sources often cost much more than a standard product, sometimes more than 10 times the cost, and the overall benefits have not been proven.

Common claims:

  • It is closer to “natural” daylight, which is its own benefit: This claim is more or less meaningless. Daylight changes throughout the day due to atmospheric conditions (is it cloudy or clear) and time of day (mid-day sun or morning sunrise). All artificial lighting sources are static in their output, what you get at 3:00 PM on a cloudy day is that same as 2:00 AM at night. Some LED sources are collections of LEDs that can be programmed to change color, but that has nothing to do with mimicking daylight. Trying to hash out the meaning of this claim gets you mired in spectral distribution curves which is a huge topic, so for now just keep in mind that “full-spectrum” sources are just modifications of existing fluorescents. Except GE Reveal and the like, which are modified incandescents.
  • You get better color from full-spectrum sources: This is sort-of true. Full-spectrum fluorescents use a different phosphor mix that can sometimes have a higher CRI (color rendering index) than a typical fluorescent. The increase in CRI is often accompanied by an decrease in efficiency. You can also get non-full-spectrum fluorescents with higher CRI ratings than standard for slightly more cost than a standard lamp but still less than a full-spectrum lamp. The stand-out exception to this is the incandescent full-spectrum sources, which decrease the CRI of their bulbs.
  • You get increased worker productivity with full-spectrum: There are two parts to this: the first is just based on the ability to see tasks well. In most circumstances productivity for visual tasks is linked to monochromatic tasks, such as reading black ink on white paper. For these tasks it is the amount of light that determines good visibility, not the color or quality of the light. In this regard full-spectrum offers no benefits. There is some research suggesting that since the rods–which are blue-green sensitive–control the size of the pupil, light to the cool, bluish side causes the pupil to constrict and thereby increase acuity and you can get equal acuity with less power by using bluish light. I think it is unreasonable to get into this kind of detail when you just want to buy a lightbulb, so the simple answer is “no.” However, if your work is very color sensitive, such as fine art or clothing production, you want to maximize the CRI of your sources to affect productivity.
  • It has psychological benefits: This is the second part of the “increased productivity” claim. By definition, a psychological benefit is “all in your head,” so in terms of the benefit claim it is true. If you like full-spectrum lighting and don’t mind the disadvantages then you are getting a psychological benefit. Does everyone feel better equally, there’s no way to say, which is why it makes a good marketing claim. I have never found any research that shows a physiological link that leads to a psychological benefit. This is also often linked to the “natural” daylight claim. It is true that most people feel better working and living under daylight than artificial light. However, daylight changes throughout the day and with the weather, and I think the change over time is one of the main reasons people like daylight.

This post is getting longer than I like for a daily reading, so I’ll deal with the health concerns tomorrow. That will give you a chance to rest up and stay with me.