Archive for the ‘Fluorescent (and CFL)’ Category

Intro to Fluorescents, Day 4

Thursday, June 11th, 2009

There are a couple health concerns that have been discussed in the media recently. Fortunately, the technical benefits of fluorescent lighting outweigh the risks.

The gas in fluorescent lamps is a mercury vapor, which is why some people are concerned about switching to fluorescents. However, the amount of mercury is small when compared to the amount of mercury released by coal-fired power plants. Since you’ll be changing out a 100 watt bulb for a (somewhere around) 25 watt bulb to get the same light, you reduce the generation needed at the power plant. (The US still generates most of its electricity from coal-fired plants.) Most researchers agree that switching to fluorescents will bring a net reduction in mercury emissions, and the EPA claims about a 2/3rd reduction in mercury emissions for changing a 60 watt incandescent to a 13 watt compact fluorescent.

Also, you can get lower mercury lamps by looking for TCLP compliant lamps. TCLP is a test the EPA has that involves crushing stuff up and see what leaches out.

Fluorescent lamps are classified as Universal Waste, which means you can’t throw it in the dump, but it doesn’t have to be handled like hazardous waste. It’s in the middle. You may or may not be able to recycle them in your area. The EPA has a page to help you figure out what’s available at their website: http://www.epa.gov/epawaste/hazard/wastetypes/universal/lamps/live.htm.

On a second matter, the current passing through the vapor generates UV (ultraviolet) rays, which are necessary to make the phosphor coating fluoresce. Much of the UV is shielded by the glass simply as a property of glass, nothing special is done to it. Some UV does come through, but it is a fairly small amount. “Full spectrum” fluorescent lamps are available, but I recommend you do not use them. They use older and less efficient phosphor coatings, they allow more UV through, and they are typically less efficient. There is also no definition of what “full spectrum” means, so you don’t know what you’re getting when you buy them.

Intro to Fluorescents, Day 3

Wednesday, June 10th, 2009

Following up on yesterday’s post, there are fixes for the two common complaints regarding color and flicker.

  1. Color is tricky. The details regarding color for fluorescent lighting is complex and I’ll address it in another post, but for now just look for two things: the lamp’s color temperature and its CRI. The color temperature will be four digits followed by a “K,” such as 3000K or 4200K. The CRI will be two digits and may or may not be labeled, such as 72 or 86. For color temperature, select from three options: 3000K, 3500K, or 4000K. The 3000K will appear warmer, supporting reds and oranges better. The 4000K will appear cooler and brighter, supporting the blues and greens better. It comes down to personal preference, and you should see each before making a selection. For the CRI, select the highest number available, hopefully higher than 85. The color temperature and CRI will be printed on the bulb if it isn’t on the box. GE uses a code like F32T8/SPX35/ECO, where the SPX means a CRI of 86 and the 35 means a color temperature of 3500K. Philips and Sylvania use similar codes: F32T8/TL835/ALTO for Philips or FO32/835/XP/ECO for Sylvania. The 8 means a CRI of 86 for Philips and 82 for Sylvania (the addition of XP raises it to 85) and the 35 means a color temperature of 3500K. Those three codes will basically provide you the same lamp.
  2. Flicker is not tricky. Flicker can be solved by using electronic instead of magnetic ballasts. Older, magnetic ballasts operate at 60 Hz, as discussed yesterday. Electronic ballasts operate at thousands of cycles per second, so it is impossible to see the flicker. Plus, they are much quieter than older ballasts, so if you hear a ballast buzzing, change it!

Intro to Fluorescents, Day 2

Tuesday, June 9th, 2009

Since fluorescent lighting is much more efficient it would seem to be good way to save on energy consumption. However, most people don’t want to switch to fluorescents. There are basically two main complaints.

  1. I hate the color. It’s not so much the color as the lack of color. Incandescent, like sunlight, has a wide “spectral distribution,” which simply means it looks white because it has all the colors of the rainbow mixed together. Because the light in a fluorescent lamp is generated by the phosphor coating on the inside of the lamp (see yesterday’s post), rather than incandescence, the spectral range is reduced. Think of a rainbow with parts missing. Objects and people that you see will looked dingy if the colors on them are not present in the fluorescent lamp’s “rainbow.” Although most people can’t quite put their finger on it, that’s why they think that things just look bad under fluorescent lights.
  2. I hate the flickering. The “flicker” that some people see is a real problem and can lead to headaches as well as annoyance. It is caused by the ballast. Old ballasts operate at 60 cycles per second, the same as the cycle supplied from the power company. Each end of the lamp is actually firing off 60 times per second, which is slow enough some people can see it, usually in their peripheral vision.

There are good fixes for these complaints, which is tomorrow’s posting topic.

Intro to Fluorescents, Day 1

Monday, June 8th, 2009

This week I’ll be going over the basics of fluorescent lighting.

The principles of fluorescent lighting were discovered before Thomas Edison invented his incandescent lighting bulb. However, fluorescent lighting is more complex than an incandescent, so were commercially available first and quickly became the standard.

Fluorescent ligting is a two-step process: energy passes through a gas, which releases more energy that acts upon the coating on the inside of the glass. The light is generated by causing this coating to fluoresce, hence, “fluorescent lighting.”

Much of the complexity of fluorescent lighting comes from the fact that the power flowing through a gas instead of a filament has “negative resistance.” That means that the more electricity you give a lamp the more it tries to draw. It quickly takes in some much power that it bursts. To control the power a second piece of equipment is needed, called a ballast. To operate a fluorescent lamp the ballast must match the voltage and wattage design of the lamp. This means fluorescent lighting require a lot of parts, so incandescent lamps are the simple alternative.

Tomorrow: common complaints.