Archive for July, 2009

Color Temperature Basics: Fluorescents

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

The real meat of the color temperature discussion is with regards to fluorescent and HID (high intensity discharge) sources. Color temperature is tricky for fluorescents because it is based on heating the black-body object to get a color. However, fluorescent sources do not have an object to heat since there is no (functional) filament. Instead, it is a gas discharge process, so color temperature doesn’t really apply. Instead, we use the CCT, or “correlated color temperature.” This is just an approximation of the color temperature the manufacturer is trying to achieve with their mix of phosphors inside the lamp.

The reason CCT is important is because there are so many different phosphor mixes that can be used. Unlike incandescent lamps, there is a wide range of mixes and each mix, relating to a CCT, establishes what we see as “white.” It is this establishment of “white” that makes any and all of this matter.

By using a different phosphor mix, we make white objects appear either warm or cool, based on the (correlated) color temperature of the light source. All other objects, from artwork to skin color, reflects the same “bias” toward the color we have established as white light. This is why early adoption of fluorescent office lighting was so painful. The phosphor mix and color temperature of the light was shifted so far toward the higher, cool end of the lighting range people didn’t like the way things looked. There were other problems, but the main thing most people took away from the experience was an association of fluorescent lighting being “cold.”

However, we could just as easily make our fluorescent lighting “warm” by using lamps with a CCT with a lower number. For example, you could use lamps with a CCT of 2700 to try to match the incandescent lamps you are used to having in the home. In my experience, most people don’t like a fluorescent lamp with a CCT of 2700K either, since it doesn’t look like a regular incandescent lamp with a color temperature of 2700K. That’s part of the “correlated” aspect, and there is also some color rendering issues which I’ll discuss in following posts.

The trick to good fluorescent and compact fluorescent lighting is finding the CCT you like for any particular use. In more residential settings, a 3000K lamp may be preferred, whereas in an office or kitchen 3500K may be better. You can’t just pick one and use it for everything, although that would be preferable to not picking at all and just installing whatever shows up. Selecting the right color temperature is a part of the lighting design process.

Color Temperature Basics: What is It?

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009

Color temperature refers to a “black-body radiator.” This is a theoretical object (as in, it doesn’t really exist but we pretend it does because we find that useful) that will absorb all electromagnetic radiation cast upon it; it will reflect or transfer none. Visible light is a small portion of electromagnetic radiation, which you can think of as the stuff coming from the sun that provides light and heat.

When a black body radiator is heated it begins to glow. There’s a cool java applet on the Olympus Microscopy Resource Center website that demonstrates this idea with a picture of a horseshoe. At the lower range it begins by glowing red. Then as it gets hotter it goes through yellow and white phases, eventually shifting into the very bright blue-white range. At any particular color, we refer to the temperature of the blackbody as the “color temperature.” (A note on that java tutorial, the temperature indicated on the scale refers to the tips of the horseshoe. The other colors move down the horseshoe to show that the tips are being heated and the bottom is cooler than the tip. The temperature does not relate to all the colors shown in the image.) The temperature is on the Kelvin scale, which is the same as celsius plus 273. That is, -273˚C is 0 K, 0˚C is 273 K, and 100˚C is 373 K.

For lighting, it is easier to refer to the temperature generating a color than trying to describe the color itself, which changes slowly and is not really part of our language of color. If you are looking at that java applet from Olympus, try to describe the difference between the color of the horseshoe tips at 2700K, 3000K, and 3200K. You’ll quickly realize why referring to a color temperature is easier.

A bit of confusing terminology, however, is that we refer to red the red side as “warm” and the blue side as “cool.” This is based on our traditional color associations of red and blue. It can be confusing because the bluer tint comes as you increase the temperature. Hence, you may hear people refer to “raising” the color temperature to “cool” the light source.

The filament of a regular incandescent lamp is not a true black-body, but it does go through the same color process as it is heated. That’s why when you put a regular lightbulb on a dimmer it shifts toward the red as you dim it down: it’s the horseshoe in reverse. Therefore, if you’re looking at incandescent lightbulbs color temperature isn’t a very useful metric. Regular and halogen lamps at full power usually end up around 2700K to 3050K, and that can be changed by adjusting the voltage. The real purpose of discussing color temperature is for fluorescent lamps, which I’ll get to tomorrow.