Money from BGE

October 7th, 2009

If you are in Maryland and BGE is the power company for your business, ask me how to get them to pay for 50% of your energy efficiency upgrades! If your business is in Maryland and have PEPCO or Allegheny Power you have options too!

New LED Introduction Continued

September 4th, 2009

So I mentioned in my last post that there are two main reasons LED are such a big change from way we have previously generated light for ourselves. I discussed the electric versus electronic issue. Now I want to introduce the second issue: directionality.

All of our previous methods of generating light have been omnidirectional. That means that the light is radiated nearly all directions more or less equally. If you picture a candle, the light shines above and below and all around it fairly evenly. Some light is blocked below the candle, but that’s actually a shadow. The flame is still shining light down on the top of the candle.

That means that we can take as single candle, stick it in a room, and illuminate the entire space. It may not be very bright, but the light goes everywhere. The same thing can is true for light bulbs. The design of a traditional incandescent light bulb is pretty much the same as candle. There is a filament providing the light, just like a flame, and there is a base for holding the filament in place, just like the candle. We have developed various shapes for light bulb since then, but the only real difference is if the bulb has sockets on two ends so the shadow is on two ends instead of just one.

All the different sources still have the same distribution property. Incandescent, halogen, fluorescent, compact fluorescent, mercury vapor, sodium discharge, metal halide… They all send the light in all directions. Often, we don’t want the light to go in all directions, we want to be able to control it. So we have developed reflectors and refractors to help send the light the ways we want it to go and stop if from going where we don’t want it go. Just for clarification: reflectors are things like mirrors that bounce the light back either toward where it came from or in another direction we intend; refractors are things like lenses that let the light pass through them to the other side, but while passing through the light changes direction.

Going back to our candle in the room example, if we stick the candle on the wall so it stays out of the way, there is a bunch of light shining on the wall where it isn’t very useful to us. So, we stick a mirror on the wall behind the candle and (most) of the light that would have landed on the wall is now bounced back into the room where we want it. If we want to get even more useful light out of it, we can use a curved mirror instead of a flat one so that we can start to bend the edges around the flame to catch more of the light that would have gone onto the wall further from the candle and use that too.  Finally, we can stick that entire thing into a lantern and use a lens on the side toward the middle of the room to catch stray light and refocus it across the room. We have created a lighting fixture, and we have been using the basics of reflectors and refractors to control omnidirectional sources for thousands of years. We’re pretty good at it.

Now, we can take those omnidirectional sources and make them directional. PAR lamps and MR-16 lamps that you buy at the hardware store are examples of lamps that have the reflectors built onto the source. The filament inside is still omnidirectional, but it is built into a solid unit that does some of the work of the fixture. That’s why you often see light coming out the back of such sources either through gaps or through what appears to be opaque surfaces when the lamp is off.

The big change with LED sources is that they are truely directional. The diode is made up of layers and the light is only emitted out of one side. If you stick an LED in the middle of the room you don’t get light everywhere. It only lights the part of the room that the LED is “facing.” The other side of the room remains dark.

It may seem  like a minor point, but it really is important. Think of lighting up a space a building an object. The old way was to start with everything, both good and bad, then take away the bad parts. The LED way is to start with nothing and just starting adding things. The question becomes, how much do you add? With the old way, once you take away the bad parts which is pretty much the light going where we don’t want it, whatever is left over is useful. With the LED way, someone has to decide whether or not to keep adding.

So far, much of the LED lighting development has been driven by the need to reduce energy consumption. That means that LED sources have been designed by people who want to stop adding as quickly as possible. The problem is that people have lighting needs that are established without regard to the source or energy consumption, but by whether or not they can see well enough for whatever is it that they are doing.

Return to the example of a light bulb in a room. If we want to illuminate the room with LED sources, we have to add LEDs pointing in all directions. To illustrate, let’s imagine we take the guts out of a light bulb and glue LEDs onto the outside. How many do we have to add? One every square inch? One every square half-inch? Do we have the cover the surface completely? Then, we have to address the point of the previous discussion of the LEDs being electronic but the power is electric. Can we fit all the electronic components and drivers inside that light bulb?

In summary, the directionality of LED modules means we have to rethink and re-imagine how to develop a light source. It doesn’t mean that these problems can’t be solved, or aren’t being solved, it just means it is more difficult.

New LED Introduction

September 2nd, 2009

After two postings about LED lighting and working on more, I have decided I didn’t like the way the series was developing. It was too much cart before the horse. I want these posts to be useful for everyone and I felt the LED discussion was getting too technical without explaining why any of it mattered. Therefore, I am going to start over with a new introduction to LED lighting.

LED lighting is a game changer, but not in the way most people discuss it. It is not because of the efficiency or size or whatever, but because it is so fundamentally different from the way we have created light for ourselves. This may or may not be the future of lighting. It seems to be direction everyone is traveling at the moment, but that doesn’t mean we won’t find another alternative before we fully adopt, and adapt to, LED lighting.

There are two main reasons LED lighting is such a huge change. This post will focus of the first of the two, which is that LED lighting is an electronic, rather than electric, approach.

Imagine for a moment you are back in the early days of electric lighting. Up until this time, light was generated by burning a fuel at the point where you wanted the light to be. You might have a whale-oil lantern or a wax candle, but in any case the location of the light had to have both a supply of fuel to be consumed and a flame. At some point, your fuel would be used up and you would need more.

Then this new technology arrives that promises to change everything. By using an electric light you separate the fuel from the light source. Previously, if you knocked over an oil lamp you had to worry about a fire breaking out. Now, if you break an electric light bulb it just goes out. You no longer had an open flame at every light source. Now, each incandescing filament is surrounded by a glass envelope. Granted, there were still plenty of fires started by bad wiring or things touching a hot lamp, but it was a safer than having flames and combustible materials everywhere. You could wake up at night and press a switch to turn on the light instead of fumbling around in the dark for your taper.

The electricity became the new version of the fuel. How much electricity you got determined how much work was done by your motor or light bulb. You could plug in a light bulb and if you kept giving it more electricity it would get brighter and brighter until it broke. Electricity was “power,” and the power means getting work done.

All of our lighting advances since then have gone along the same lines: electricity means power. Various circuits have been designed to take advantage of that power in different ways, and different lamps take advantage of those circuits in different ways, but it is still essentially using electricity to power a light source, and creating that light is the work we want done.

LED lighting is different because electronics are different than electrics. Electronics use electricity as the power source, but they also use electricity as the information source. I’ll use digital electronics as the example since analog electronics are a confusing middle ground.

In a digital circuit the idea is to use the current as the information. Imagine you want a digital light switch. The entire device will need two circuits: one circuit to figure out if it is supposed to be off or on, and a second to actually power the light. The two circuits can’t be shared, because if they were the result would be something like: “if the light is on, turn the light on, and if the light is off, turn it off.” That wouldn’t actually do anything useful. Instead, we have one circuit which is “smart.” It knows that if the current flows in a particular direction at a particular power, it is supposed to be “on.” If the current doesn’t meet those requirements, it is “off.” If the control circuit is “on,” it tells the work circuit to flow, turning on the light.

The point here is that diodes, like an LED, were and are designed to function as a part of the control circuit, not the work circuit. To make LED lighting work we have to design a control circuit act as a work circuit. That’s the point of including the stuff about circuit boards and drivers in my previous posts. Power is supplied from the power company in the work circuit form, which then has to be converted to a control circuit form to let the LED function. However, the LED has to function as a work circuit, and the only way that can be accomplished is by proper fixture design. That’s why we can’t just stick a bunch of LED modules on a wall and expect an efficient and effective lighting system.

LED Lighting, About Life

August 28th, 2009

Another potential benefit to LED lighting is that they promise to last a lot longer than incandescent or even fluorescent lighting. It is often claimed that an LED will last 100,000 hours. In practical terms, how long is 100,000 hours?

  • Left on 24 hours a day, 100,000 hours means about 11 1/2 years.
  • Left on 12 hours a day, for example all night all year long, 100,000 hours means about 22 years.
  • Left on 9 hours a day, for example all day in your office, 100,000 hours means about 30 1/2 years.

Those calculations are pretty impressive, which is why they are used. Especially when someone is trying to convince you to buy a $36 LED light bulb. If you compare a single $36 LED lamp against 100 to 133 $0.75 lighting bulbs the economics seem to make sense.

However, it is not a fair comparison. Similar to the posting about LED efficiency, you can’t take the life of the LED module itself and apply it an LED used in a lighting application. To be fair, the major lamp manufacturers who are entering the LED game have toned down the rhetoric, and usually claim somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 hours. However, the big claims are still out there.

Like efficiency, everything you do to an LED will tend to shorten its life. Much come back to the heat that has such a negative effect on efficiency. That same heat shortens the lifespan. If a module and the fixture design are good at dissipating the heat the lifespan isn’t shortened as much as it would be with a poor design, but there is always going to be some effect.

The problem at predicting the effect is that the LED lighting fixtures being designed and sold are still so new there just hasn’t been enough time to adequately test the claims.

Technical note: you don’t necessarily need to know this bit.

Lifespan for lighting is odd. It measures the number of hours a lamp type in aggregate is going to average until the lamp is no longer useful. For incandescent lamps this is fairly simple. If an incandescent lamp has a 750 hour life, than if you take a large sample of lamps after 750 hours you would expect about half of them to still be on and half to have burned out.

Lifespan for fluorescent lamps is more complex, since they slowly decrease the light they put out over time. Therefore, it is possible to have a lamp still function that isn’t putting out enough light to be useful. So if you take a very large sample of lamps with a rated life of 10,000 hours, after 10,000 hours more than 50% might still be illuminated, but only about 50% will actually be useful.

Lifespan for LED modules is like fluorescent lamps. They slowly decrease over time. There is an industry testing protocol (LM-80), but not everyone is using it. For example, some people use the “B50″ claim, which is the point when 50% of the LED stop turning on. Others might be a bit more reasonable and use the “L50″ claim, which is the point when the lumen output is 50% of the original. Others use the “L70″ claim, which is the point at which the lumen output has dropped to only 70% of the original. LM-80, the testing protocol from the IES, uses L50 or L70 based on the application.

To return to the main point: The problem at predicting the effect is that the LED lighting fixtures being designed and sold are still so new there just hasn’t been enough time to adequately test the claims.

If you take a 100,000 LED module and stick it in a fixture, you have to test the life of the LED in the fixture. Say we think it will last 50,000 hours instead of 100,000 hours. That means to adequately test the claim (not just run the computer simulations) you have to build a bunch of fixtures and test them for over 5 years. These test are in progress, and there are plenty of tests that have been completed. However, in terms of the overall industry those amount to spot checks, and what we really need is the sheer massive quantity of testing completed that will allow us to make confident claims about the industry as a whole. We’ve been using incandescent lamps for over a century, and fluorescent lamps almost as long. (Earlier posting: fluorescent precursors were invented before incandescent lamps but not really commercially viable or available until the 1920s.)

In general, the longer the life claim of an LED the more skeptical your approach should be. Chances are, if a manufacturer says their LED fixture has a more limited life of around 20,000 hours it is because they have gone through the testing procedures and there is the paperwork demonstrating that rated life and they know they can’t get away with claiming anything longer. If they claim 100,000 hours, chances are they have taken the number straight from the original LED laboratory results and not actually tested their own application.

LED Lighting, About Efficiency

August 26th, 2009

LED lighting offers claims of very high efficiency. Recently I’ve seen claims of over 100 lumens per watt and efficiency of four to five times that of incandescent. First, a refresher on efficiency (and efficacy) for those that need it. The following are link-backs to the previous posts I made regarding efficiency, and they should open up in a new window so you can just close it when you’re done reviewing to get back here.

The problem with trusting efficiency claims from LED manufacturers is based on the complexity of the systems. The initial efficiency measurement is made with a controlled junction temperature of 25˚C and lasts for only a millisecond. These measurements are made of the LEDs themselves and before the LEDs are built into any sort of fixture.

LEDs are sensitive to current. As current increases, the efficiency decreases. Most LEDs used for lighting applications run at around 350 milliamps, or 0.350 amps. Like a fluorescent lamp requires a ballast to control voltage, an LED needs a driver to control the current. And just as a fluorescent ballast decreases the efficiency of a fluorescent lamp, the driver decreases the efficiency of the LED module. At present, the rule of thumb is that you can expect a loss of 10 to 15% efficiency due to the driver. Remember, the LED is an electronic component and the power supplied is connected by an electric component. The driver is the link between them.

LEDs are also sensitive to heat. As the temperature rises above or drops below the testing temperature of 25˚C (which is about 77˚F) the efficiency drops. LEDs are commonly described as not producing much heat, but that is only partially true. The current passing from the circuit board to the diode creates heat, so the heat that is generated comes out the back of the module, not the front. You can touch the front of an LED and it is cool to the touch, but the module itself will be mounted on some sort of heat sink that will be hot. When the initial testing is done it only last a fraction of a second, but in continuous use the efficiency of that heat sink comes into play. Again, the rule of thumb at present is that you can expect a loss of 8 to 10% for thermal management.

Playing even more into that loss of efficiency is sticking an LED module into some sort of fixture housing. You can’t just stick an LED module on your ceiling or wall as a light fixture. (In order to do that your wall and ceilings would have to be made out of circuit boards, so it would look like living inside a computer, which I suppose some people might thing was cool.) The LED module has to go into something, and at present the LED manufacturers and fixture manufacturers are different companies. A fixture manufacturer buys an LED module from someone else and then has to figure out how to deal with the heat and everything else. While the best fixture design possible might maintain that 8 to 10% loss in efficiency due to heat, a poor fixture design can increase that loss even more.

LEDs are also directional sources. If you take a regular incandescent light bulb and stick it in a bare socket, the light travels in all directions and lights up the whole room. If you take a halogen PAR lamp and stick it in a base socket, it lights up mostly in one direction like a cone of light. The LED is similar to the PAR lamp although it typically has a tighter cone of light. To use an LED to light up a room there has to be some method of optically controlling the light distribution. At present, the rule of thumb is that you can expect another 10 to 15% decrease in efficiency due to whatever method is used for optical control.

Aside: I’ve used a halogen PAR lamp as an example of a directional light source since most people are familiar with that type of bulb. Keep in mind that a PAR lamp is a combination of a light source an optical control system. The filament inside the lamp is omni-directional, just like a regular light bulb, but the glass and metal envelope surrounding it control the light to make it directional. The final result is less efficient than if we just uncovered the bare filament inside the bulb, but since we’ve packaged the whole thing as a lamp we ignore that loss and just use the efficiency of the entire unit for calculations. Keep in mind we’ve had a century of experience now at controlling omni-directional light, which is what we get from all incandescent and fluorescent sources. LEDs are the first fundamentally directional sources we’ve developed so we are still fairly new at utilizing the light generation.

So if we add up the efficiency losses from the driver, heat, and optical design, we’ve already lost 28 to 40% of the LEDs efficiency just by taking the thing out of the laboratory and trying to stick in into a lighting fixture (or flashlight, or whatever).

There are other losses in efficiency that are harder to illustrate. LEDs typically have a very high color temperature. Decreasing that color temperature to something that would be more appropriate to general lighting decreases the efficiency. LEDs emit light in specific regions of the color spectrum based on the materials used, which is similar to the issues regarding fluorescent lighting. When efforts are made to increase the color rendition, similar to increasing the CRI of a fluorescent lamp, the efficiency decreases.

The take-away here is that you can’t just look at the efficiency of the LED module and make an assumption about the efficiency of the LED light. The only way to determine the efficiency is to look at the efficacy of the entire system after it is designed and potentially installed. That why if you review my postings about the new lighting requirements for California they specify that the efficiency of LED lighting has be done based on the entire LED module/driver system, not just the lamping. The efficiency of the lamp all that is required for incandescent or fluorescent lighting options.

LED Lighting, The Introduction

August 25th, 2009

LED lighting is a complex subject. It is new, and it is a game-changer. I’ll endeavor to make this all comprehensible.

Part of the problem is that LEDs are an electronic component, not a traditional lighting source. I believe that is the root of nearly all the confusion. We’re trying to shoehorn components that are meant to build things like computers and radios into a lighting fixture. LED stands for “light emitting diode.” We’re trying to take advantage of the “light emitting” part, but the component is still a diode. The traditional function of a diode is to control the direction of an electrical current.

LED proponents have a variety of claims for the advantages of LED lighting. The most common claims are that LED have higher efficiency and long life than traditional lighting sources. These claims are technically true in a laboratory setting, but in the real-life application the picture is much more complex. Development is taking place, and someday the full potential of the LED light may be realized, but that hasn’t happened yet.

Over the next few posts I’ll address issues surrounding LED lighting in what I hope will be understandable bite-sized chunks. I’ll address energy efficiency and lifespan, but also get into other factors such as color and light directionality that affect the use of LED in lighting but get less popular coverage.

As an aside, an OLED is an LED where the emitting layer is an organic compound instead of an inorganic compound. They are a newer development and less efficient at present, but one of the exciting aspects of them is that they can be flexible. Developers are looking at them for flexible displays and luminous cloth.

Been on a Break!

August 6th, 2009

I’ve been away from the blog for the last two weeks, so I’m sorry if it has been feeling a little stale. I’ve been working up a list of new topics, but if there are things you are particularly interested in exploring please let me know by posting a comment to this posting. I’ll work the new things into mine own list and get back into a regular rhythm.

I will be discussing LEDs soon, but go ahead and comment with specific questions if you have them.

California Lighting, Final Thoughts

July 22nd, 2009

All in all, the California Title 24 legislation is pretty progressive. With regard to lighting, it is really focused toward making you think about the lighting in your home. You really have two primary approaches toward lighting your living space: either committing fully to fluorescent lighting or using dimmers throughout your home for energy savings. The state is also clearly looking forward to LED lighting, but frankly the industry isn’t ready to support that yet. However, the rate of growth is so strong it will only be a few more years before that changes.

If you commit to fluorescent lighting remember to consider the color temperature and color rendering index of each lamp. Right now people aren’t accustomed to the way everything appears under fluorescents, but I think in a generation the quality of fluorescent lighting will become our new “normal.” With technological advances the fluorescent and LED sources will improve and either the manufacturers will make them more like natural light or (more likely) we’ll just grow to accept the spectral profiles of those sources.

However, if you aren’t ready to make that leap yet you can use dimming systems. I think everyone should use dimming in their homes even if they don’t care at all about energy efficiency, since I believe the quality of life benefits shouldn’t be ignored.

And instead of just using local dimmers, hopefully this will stimulate the use of wider-ranging lighting systems. System that enable you to program lighting for entire rooms rather than just adjusting each circuit. There are countless options out there so don’t feel limited by the adoption of more stringent energy efficiency standards as they progress from the west coast eastward.

California Lighting, Special Rooms

July 20th, 2009

Special Rooms-Kitchen:

The biggest and most complex part of the lighting section of California’s Title 24 is with regard to kitchen lighting. You are allowed to use a combination of high and low efficacy fixtures in the kitchen because the state considers the visual requirements in the kitchen to be so much more complex than in the rest of the home.

You can use low efficacy fixtures (only in the kitchen) with a combined wattage not to exceed the combined wattage of high efficacy fixtures also in the kitchen. That means if you install 150 watts of high efficacy fluorescent lighting in the kitchen you are also allowed to install up to 150 watts of low efficacy incandescent, halogen, or low-voltage lighting.

Lighting built into cabinets is excluded because it has its own rules, but those built-ins must only light the inside of the cabinet. Lighting attached to the outside of the cabinets does not count as cabinet lighting, but must be included as part of the kitchen wattage calculation. The same goes if you have lighting inside your cabinet but it is designed to light surfaces outside of the cabinet. That is, you can’t install one of the low-voltage striplights that has little MR-16 attachments to point onto your counters to try to get around the kitchen wattage restrictions.

The high efficacy and low efficacy lighting in the kitchen must be controlled separately. (Actually, that is true everywhere, but since you can’t use low efficacy fixtures unless they are dimmed the distinction is a little pointless. You can’t combine different source types on a dimmer, so you couldn’t dim both incandescent and fluorescent fixtures on one control. I guess the only way to mix would be if all of them were on a vacancy sensor, but you shouldn’t be mixing fixture types in any room in which you want to use vacancy sensors anyway.)

To calculate the wattage of the low efficacy fixtures you must use the highest wattage allowed by the fixture. That means you can’t “save” by putting a smaller light bulb in the fixture, say a 60 watt bulb in a fixture that can take up to 100 watts. If you are using low-voltage fixtures you have to use the input wattage of the transformer, which is most likely going to be higher than the wattage of the lamp or lamps.

If you want to use track lighting in your kitchen there are a number of different ways to calculate the wattage against your allowance, but the easiest is just to use 45 watts per foot of track, unless the actual lamping is greater. Yep, a three foot section of track over your island counts as 135 watts, even if you just put two dinky 20 watt pendants on the track. If instead you put three 75 watt incandescent lamps you would have to use the higher combined wattage of 225.

The state has also figured you might try to get around the restriction by running your wiring to boxes and then not hooking up any fixture until after the inspection is complete. So each electrical box either covered by a blank plate or where there isn’t any electrical equipment hooked up counts as 180 watts of low efficacy power toward your allotment. Actually, this is often done innocently when you are going to install a ceiling fan but it hasn’t been picked out yet. The electrician runs the wires to a box that will someday support the fan for you, but he may be done and off the job before the final fan selection is made if you are going to install the fan yourself.

Finally, if you have a kitchen that seamlessly merges into your breakfast nook or any other room you have to be careful with the control wiring. If it looks like a single room the nook will be counted as part of the kitchen unless the lights are controlled by different switches/dimmers/whatever.

Other rooms:

The restrictions for bathrooms, attached and detached garages, laundry rooms,closets, and utility rooms are tighter than for the rest of the home. All the fixtures in all of these rooms must be high efficacy. There are only two exceptions: one, you can use permanently installed low efficacy fixtures if the control is a vacancy sensor; or two, if the closet is less than 70 square feet you can have permanently installed low efficacy fixtures without a vacancy sensor.

Notably missing from the exceptions for these rooms is the exception for using dimmers. As a personal point, I am sorry this is the case since I think that it is pretty important to dim the lights in the bathroom. See my post on dimmers in the bathroom for the reasons why. And if you have dimmed incandescent or halogen fixtures throughout your home I think it is poor design to use dimmed fluorescent in the bathroom.

California Lighting, Overview

July 16th, 2009

California has recently adopted energy efficiency standards that have a huge impact upon lighting. And since California has been leading the country in energy efficiency standards I thought I’d write up a quick summary of what homeowners ought to know about the changes to residential lighting since it is just a matter of time before similar rules spread to the rest of the country. Note that there are a couple adoption dates that we haven’t reached yet, so the entire Title 24 code isn’t in effect as of right now, but we may as well look to the future.

First of all, the new rules apply to all new residences and other projects that require a permit, so chances are you’re going to have to comply. Portable lighting, such as table and floor lamps, are not covered by the changes. However, all permanent lighting is covered and that basically includes anything attached to a surface. So you can’t stick a lighting track on the ceiling but control it by a cord plugged into an outlet. Lighting installed in furniture like cabinets or bath vanities is included. The big exception to this is lighting that is built into appliances, such as microwaves, refrigerators or stove exhaust hoods.

The idea is to divide lighting fixtures into high efficacy and low efficacy groups. You can install all the high efficacy fixtures you want anywhere you want. (Interestingly, to divide the fixtures into high and low efficacy the rules use just the lamp efficiency, rather than the actual fixture efficacy. Remember the efficiency/efficacy post?) To determine if a fixture is high efficacy it must comply with the following lumens per watt limits.

  • If the fixture’s lamp is 5 watts or less, it must get at least 30 lumens per watt.
  • If the fixture’s lamp is up to 15 watts, it must get at least 40 lumens per watt.
  • If the fixture’s lamp is up to 40 watts, it must get at least 50 lumens per watt.
  • If the fixture’s lamp is over 40 watts, it must get at least 60 lumens per watt.

(However, the method to determine the lumens per watt of LED fixtures has some restrictions so you can’t use the LPW of the LED module. You have to use the input power of the LED driver, but then it must also comply with the same LPW restrictions as above. You do NOT have to take the ballast for fluorescent lamps into account.)

Anything that doesn’t meet the above LPW restrictions is considered a low efficacy fixture.

In addition, there are some things that will automatically classify fixtures as a low efficacy fixture, the most important being that anything with a screw base socket is considered low efficacy. That means all fixtures using the medium or candelabra size socket that all our fixtures in our homes have been using for decades. There are some other things but the screw base socket is the most important. There is an exception for HID lamps with screw base sockets, and a huge section regarding the GU-24 base, but you probably won’t have to be concerned with those details.

Now, once you know what is high efficacy or low efficacy you can figure out what you can install in your home. There is a complex exception for the kitchen, but the basic rule of thumb is that you can only use high efficacy fixtures in your home.

Now, there are exceptions for most of your living areas:

  1. Low efficacy fixtures may be used if the circuit is controlled by a “vacancy sensor.” This is not the same as an occupancy sensor! A vacancy sensor is defined by the state as a control that can only be turned on manually and will automatically turn itself off after a preset time of 30 minutes or less unless it detects that the room is occupied or if the control is turned off manually. This explicitly excludes controls that turn on automatically, which is how occupancy sensors typically work. Also, if the control has a switch or something that allows you to choose if the turn on method is manual or automatic, it does not count.
  2. Low efficacy fixtures may be used if the circuit is controlled by a dimmer. The dimmer can be one that has several steps instead of a continuous sliding range, however, the dimmer must reduce the energy use by at least 65% at its lowest setting. That means that two-level switches with three settings (off, 1/2,  and full on) do not count. Three-level switches which have four settings (off, 1/3, 2/3, and full on) do count. Also, if the dimming circuit can be controlled from multiple locations it must be impossible to bypass the dimmer. The alternate locations can either be remote dimmers or switches that turn the lights either off or to the dimmed level only.

There are exceptions and additions, most notably in the kitchen. However, it’s fairly involved so I’ll address them in the next post.